Ballard Pizza Company Worthy of Applause
Stand and scarf giant pizza slices at a butcher-block table in Ballard.
By Rebekah Denn September 24, 2012
This article originally appeared in the October 2012 issue of Seattle magazine.
Ethan Stowell is trying to go downscale with The Ballard Pizza Company, but a star chef can only go so low. He’s got the slice-and-a-soda thing going at the rustically chic shop, but the soda ($4, gourmet) costs more than the slice ($3–$3.50, huge). And the knockout star of our meal had nothing to do with New Yawk–style crusts or budget meals; it was the $8 tart-sweet salad of chickpeas, celery, parsley and wine-plumped golden sultanas.
It’s unusual, but we’ve no complaints with Stowell’s first venture in his empire’s casual Grubb Brothers business line. The thin-crust pizza is good at a level well above its pay grade—well seasoned, neither too oily nor too crisp. The row of generous “fat slice” daily options ($3.50) measure a sixth of a pie, perfect for scarfing while standing at the butcher-block tables. Staffers are helpful with what could otherwise be a confusing setup. (At night, the table-service banquettes are reserved for those ordering whole pies; it’s fine to sit there at lunch.) Overall, the place is like the well-behaved oldest child of Pagliacci and Delancey, a union that’s incongruous but worthy of applause.
Lunch, dinner daily. Ballard, 5107 Ballard Ave. NW; 206.659.6033; ballardpizzacompany.com $