Food & Drink
Up-N-Down For In-N-Out?
Would you drive to Ridgefield for this exalted burger?
By Rob Smith April 26, 2024
I was at my favorite burger spot last weekend (more on that later) when the subject of In-N-Out Burger inevitably came up. You’re a rock-residing recluse if you haven’t heard that the ridiculously popular burger joint is considering opening its first location in Washington state.
If it happens — and recent history suggests “if” is truly the right word — you’ll only have to travel 152 miles south to Ridgefield to peruse the chain’s famous “Not So Secret Menu.”
I’ve never been to In-N-Out. And while few will drive almost six hours round-trip just for Kennebec potato French fries or onion-laced patties, I have several friends who insist they’d plan a trip to Portland just for the Double-Double.
In-N-Out in February submitted applications for permits to the city of Ridgefield, a process that could take the better part of a year. The California-based chain also recently announced plans for another Clark County location in east Vancouver. In-N-Out, which operates 417 restaurants in seven states and territories, had previously announced plans to open in a couple Portland suburbs, but scrapped those for reasons that still aren’t completely clear.
I’m in a little bit of a vacuum here, but I’m struck by the breathless media coverage. It’s apparently a source of civic pride: The Columbian newspaper in Vancouver broke the Ridgefield story with a taunting headline: “Clark County lands popular fast-food joint before Portland.” Ouch.
So, is In-N-Out really better than Red Mill? The Swinery in West Seattle? How about Smash That Burger, Ox Burger, Loretta’s Northwesterner, Lil Woody’s Burgers & Shakes, Burgermaster, or even Dick’s Drive-In? Or my favorite, Big Max Burger Co. at the top of Queen Anne?
The closest In-N-Out is in Keizer, just outside of Salem. Though fans shower the chain with resounding praise, even aficionados are unlikely to drive that far.
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